By Jamie Geller
You know my grandparents really knew how to cook. It seems to me that everyone born in “the Old Country” (in this case, Transylvania) was born with built-in cooking intuition. Somehow, they could create the most scrumptious meals using no fancy equipment, nor even measuring spoons. I recall that they hosted every holiday humbly, turning out the expected delicacies with what seemed like the simplest, most relaxed effort. No exotic flavor profiles, nor food combos or wine pairings; no attempts at reinventing the wheel, because when the food is that good – no, make that superb – there’s no need to find a “twist” on the recipe.
On Chanukah, we were treated to their potato pancakes, “latkes” that were classic and simple. My grandfather, a professional chef, wore a manly white waist apron that suited him perfectly. His latkes were made of eggs, onions, potatoes, oil, salt, pepper, and a little matzo meal to make them crunchy. “Corn meal, that’s also good, if you don’t have any matzo meal,” he would say reassuringly, though you knew that he secretly wondered what kind of kitchen would not have a handful of matzo meal somewhere. The potatoes were hand-grated so fine –almost to a pudding-like consistency – then lightly fried in a pan that looked as though it, too, had just come over from the Old Country. Applesauce and sour cream traditionally accompany latkes, but who needed them? Crispy on the edges, with a fluffy, buttery smooth center, Grandpa’s version of this Chanukah delicacy could stand alone.
The first Chanukah after my wedding, I called my grandfather for his latke recipe. He gave it to me with “measurements” like “a sprinkle of salt, a few spoons of matzo meal, some oil…” All the while, I wished I had watched him in action when he was in his prime. I could have taken notes, measured out the amounts he used, studied his grating technique.
But I was on my own. Tasked with recreating Grandpa’s latkes, I tried and failed, tried and failed – until I finally produced something that is reminiscent of his glorious, crunchy potato perfection. The recipe went into my first published cookbook, Quick & Kosher: Recipes from the Bride Who Knew Nothing. It’s reprinted for you below, in loving memory of my Grandfather.
My husband and kids say these latkes are the best in the world. They are very good, but they’re not my Grandfather’s. Maybe it’s my food processor and that fancy-shmancy skillet.
Latkes (Potato Pancakes)
Nothing like the way our bubbies made latkes in the old country! These latkes are not loaded with potato starch, flour, baking powder or other non-essential ingredients. My grandfather shared this recipe with me when I told him that I thought his were the crunchiest, lightest and most perfect potato latkes I’ve ever eaten.
Times
Prep time: 12
Ready time: 12 min
Servings: 8
Ingredients
4 medium Idaho potatoes
6 tablespoons canola oil or olive oil
3 eggs, beaten
2 tablespoons matzoh meal
2 teaspoons kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon coarse black pepper
Applesauce or sour cream:(optional)
Directions
Prepare a large bowl filled with cold water.
Peel potatoes, and as you finish each, place in cold water to prevent browning.
Heat oil in a large skillet over medium heat.
Cut potatoes lengthwise into halves or quarters so they fit into food processor feed tube. Process potatoes using the blade that creates thin, shoestring-like strips and transfer to a large bowl.
Add eggs, matzoh meal, salt and pepper and mix well.
Drop 6 to 8 spoonfuls of mixture into hot oil. Using the back of a spoon, pat down each latke to flatten it. Put as many as you can in the skillet without crowding. Putting them too close together will make them soggy.
Fry 3 to 4 minutes on each side, until golden and crisp around the edges; repeat procedure until finished with all the batter.
Blot excess oil with paper towels.
Serve warm with applesauce or sour cream, if desired.
Tips
Corn meal is a great substitute for matzoh meal and will also make your latkes nice and crispy.
—–
Potato and Parsnip Latkes
Times
Prep time: 15 minutes
Cook time: 50 minutes
Ready time: 1 hour, 5 min
Servings 10
Ingredients
2 medium russet potatoes, about 1 1/2-pounds, peeled and shredded
2 cups shredded parsnip, packed
2 large eggs, lightly beaten
1/4 cup matzo meal
1/2 teaspoon Dried thyme
1/4 Teaspoon garlic powder
4 tablespoons canola or grape seed oil
1 teaspoon large flake sea salt
Directions
In a large bowl, combine potato, parsnip, egg, matzo meal, thyme and garlic powder. Stir until all ingredients are combined.
In a large skillet, heat oil over medium high heat. Scoop 1/4 cup of batter and carefully place in oil. Flatten to about 1/2-inch thick with a spatula. Repeat to form 4 more latkes in your pan, being careful not to crowd the pan and cook for 4 to 6 minutes. Flip and cook 4 to 6 minutes more or until golden brown on both sides.
Transfer to a paper towel lined baking sheet and repeat with remaining batter.
Sprinkle with salt and serve immediately.
—-
Baked Sweet Potato Latkes and Gingered Sour Cream
Sweet potato latkes have a rich earthiness and satisfying sweetness that make them hard to resist.
Times
Prep time: 10 min
Ready time: 10 min
Ingredients
3 large sweet potatoes, peeled and grated
1 large red onion, grated or chopped fine
2 large eggs, beaten
1/4 cup matzo meal
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
pinch nutmeg
Cooking Spray
Directions
Preheat oven to 350 degrees F.
Mix sweet potatoes, onion, eggs, matzo meal, salt, pepper and nutmeg.
Spray cooking spray into a non stick saut? pan. Shape 1/4 cup of batter into latkes, flattening them with your hands and brown on each side.
Remove to a sprayed baking sheet and finish cooking in a 350 degrees F oven for 10-12 minutes.
Serve with Gingered Sour Cream.
Tips
To make Gingered Sour Cream add 1 tablespoon grated fresh ginger to 8 ounces of sour cream.
—-
Apple Zeppole with Jelly Dipping Sauce
Times
Prep time: 8 minutes
Cook time: 20 minutes
Ready time: 28 min
Servings 12
Ingredients
1/2 cup unsalted butter
1/2 cup Water
1/4 cup Granulated sugar
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon Kosher salt
1 cup all purpose flour
4 large eggs
1 granny smith apple (about 1 cup), peeled and diced
Vegetable oil for frying
1/2 cup confectioner’s sugar
1/2 cup seedless raspberry jam
1 tablespoon orange juice
Directions
Preparation
In a medium saucepan, heat butter, water, sugar, cinnamon and salt and bring to a boil. Remove from the heat and add flour. Return to low heat and stir with a wooden spoon until the dough comes together and forms a ball. Continue to cook for 1 minute.
Transfer dough to the bowl of a stand mixer. Beat on low speed with a paddle attachment for 1 minute or until cooled slightly. Add eggs one at a time. Add apple and mix until just combined.
In a heavy medium sized pan, heat oil to 350 F on a candy or deep fry thermometer. Using a 1 teaspoon scoop, carefully drop batter into hot oil and fry until golden brown, about 5 minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels. Repeat with remaining dough and dust with powdered sugar.
In a small bowl, whisk together jam and orange juice and serve with zeppole.
——-
Chocolate-Banana Egg Rolls
Times
Prep time: 15
Cook time: 10
Ready time: 25 min
Servings 8
Ingredients
2 bananas, finely diced
1 lemon, juiced
2 tablespoons sugar
2 tablespoons cornstarch
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
8 egg roll wrappers, defrosted
8 tablespoons Israeli chocolate spread
Canola oil for frying
1/4 cup confectioner’s sugar
Directions
In a medium bowl, combine banana, lemon juice, sugar, cornstarch and cinnamon and mix well, smashing bananas slightly with the back of a wooden spoon.
Lay out egg roll wrappers on a large work surface. Working with one wrapper at a time, spread 1 tablespoon chocolate spread across the wrapper, leaving about ¼-inch border around all edges. Spoon 3 tablespoons banana mixture across the middle of the wrapper and lightly brush all the edges with water. Position the wrapper so that one point (corner) is closest to you. Fold that corner up just enough to cover the filling. Fold each side over to meet in the middle and roll up from the bottom. Brush final corner with water, and press lightly to seal. Transfer to a baking sheet seam side down. Repeat with remaining wrappers, chocolate and filling.
Heat about ¼-inch oil in a large skillet. Fry egg rolls 6 to 9 minutes or until golden brown on all sides, using tongs to brown evenly. Remove and let drain on paper towels.
To serve, dust with confectioner’s sugar and cut in half.
Chanukah Giveaway!!
Because it’s almost Chanukah Jamie wants to give you a chance to win a gorgeous gift basket of Chanukah-themed decorated cookies and brownie bites from M&M Designs – Designer Creations for Life’s Sweetest Occasions. Whether you’re looking for a special gift or planning a celebration…their uniquely decorated edibles taste as amazing as they look. These products are under OU supervision. This gift basket that they are giving away has a retail value of $85 and you have a chance to win it! Please leave a comment on Jamie’s post on JoK sharing your favorite Chanukah memory.
Entrants must be over 18 and legal US residents. Contest ends Monday Dec 19 2011 at 9 pm EST. One winner will be picked by online randomizer from qualifying entries.
For more Chanukah recipes visit www.JoyofKosher.com.
happy chanukah
If you don’t need any twists or exotic flavors then why make gingered sour cream? Potato and parsnip latkes and sweet potato latkes are both a twist to the traditional recipe! ?!!
YUM!
If you prepare your egg mixture first and heat your oil then when you grate your potatoes they will not have a chance to go brown. Guess I’ve been doing this a little longer than you. Good Luck keep trying you will succeed.
beautiful shots!
Nice article i just read it in a magazine:)
is potato and parsnip latkes traditional?
Food can be so exciting!
If you love the traditional you must try the different types of stuffed latkes, it adds such a delicious touch!
yum!!!!yum!yum!!!!